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No-Show Socks: We Tested 50 Styles to Find One That Doesn’t Slip

By John Ortved May 5, 2023 4:45 pm ET MANY MEN—and perhaps you’re one—give summer socks a lot more thought than such tiny scraps of fabric might seem to deserve. The key question: Should you wear visible socks (hardly the breeziest or sexiest summer look), or choose “no-show” designs that hide inside your shoes, leaving ankles to lap up the sun’s rays? These invisible socks can be infuriating—constantly slipping underfoot, scrunching into a ball that wreaks havoc beneath your arches. What’s more, they have slipped out of fashion in recent years. This summer, you’ll likely spot more stylish guys wearing tall, ribbed tube socks than flashing their ankle bones. But I refuse to give up on no-show socks. They still pla

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No-Show Socks: We Tested 50 Styles to Find One That Doesn’t Slip

By

John Ortved

MANY MEN—and perhaps you’re one—give summer socks a lot more thought than such tiny scraps of fabric might seem to deserve. The key question: Should you wear visible socks (hardly the breeziest or sexiest summer look), or choose “no-show” designs that hide inside your shoes, leaving ankles to lap up the sun’s rays?

These invisible socks can be infuriating—constantly slipping underfoot, scrunching into a ball that wreaks havoc beneath your arches. What’s more, they have slipped out of fashion in recent years. This summer, you’ll likely spot more stylish guys wearing tall, ribbed tube socks than flashing their ankle bones.

But I refuse to give up on no-show socks. They still play a valuable role even if they’re less trendy than a decade or so ago, when Thom Browne’s shrunken suits inspired men to bare their ankles en masse. Rather than making a “big hosiery statement,” these hidden socks encouraged onlookers to focus on your great shoes or killer cropped pants, noted Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. These days, whether teamed with shorts or cuffed pants, no-shows keep lines clean—and, crucially, they make my unimpressive legs look longer, while tube socks chop my stems halfway up the calves. Plus, they come in handy at summer weddings when I want to keep cool and look a little louche.

Though lots of no-show socks have indefensible flaws—flimsiness, peeking above the shoe like a lie, and did I mention the slipping?—I’ve put in years of fieldwork to find the best. During a brief 2016 stint as an editor at a menswear magazine, I called in a haul of about 50 invisible-sock samples, from a mix of big and indie brands, for a story.

Heavier cotton helps no-show socks stay put. It’s easier to move a bantamweight than a heavyweight.

That article never ran, but over the seven summers since, I’ve put all these socks through their paces. More than once, on sweltering New York subway platforms, I’ve uttered the F-word, cursing out no-show-but-lots-of-slip socks that proved less reliable than the F train. Sturdier designs, meanwhile, have seen me through wedding dances, soccer games with nephews and arduous boxing classes. (Sadly, in none of these situations did having the right socks help with my moves.)

As the last pairs give way, I can confidently tell you which no-shows have performed best. Most of the 100% cotton versions from big-name brands slid and crumpled under my foot, and lasted mere months. I have mostly good things to say about Calvin Klein’s Basic Liner, though its light build means it isn’t immune to slippage. And the No Show Extra Low model by Nice Laundry, a direct-to-consumer brand, boasted impressive stamina. But my top pick? Sperry’s Men’s Feed Stripe Liner ($18 for a 3-pack).

What makes a no-show sock a success? Above all, the ability to stubbornly hold its grip on your foot. A certain blend of materials helps ensure that kind of staying power, said Olie Arnold, style director for Mr. Porter. A pinch of elastane is crucial—as is a high proportion of sturdy, breathable cotton, said Mr. Arnold. (Sperry’s winning design is 85% cotton, 13% nylon, 2% spandex.)

FREE THOSE ANKLES Three winning no-show designs. From top: Bamboo-Blend Low-Cut Socks, 3 pairs for $49, CDLP.com; Men’s Feed Stripe Liner, 3-pack for $18, Sperry.com; No Show Extra Low, 3 pairs for $29, NiceLaundry.com

Sperry’s socks are made by Renfro, a century-old manufacturer in North Carolina that also produces socks for , Hot Sox and others. The Feed Stripe Liner has the highest cotton ratio of all Sperry’s no-show styles—and, unusual for an invisible sock, the cotton is thick, noted Amy Gruno, a senior designer at Renfro. (The Feed Stripe Liner is stitched using a machine typically employed for chunky boot socks, she said.) Heavier cotton makes no-show socks more durable and the extra heft helps them stay put; it’s easier to move a bantamweight than a heavyweight. Despite the thicker yarn, I didn’t find these to be more sweat-inducing than thinner styles. And the cotton is combed, so it’s soft as a mouse’s ear.

The right details can encourage obedience: Sperry’s model features an elasticated band at the top of the heel, though I’ve found silicone heel strips on other designs to be ineffective. More important, a no-show must cover most of the foot while keeping its presence unknown, said Mr. Arnold. He favors the bamboo-blend design by premium Swedish brand CDLP. A too-skimpy style that barely covers the toes or heel just can’t cling reliably. The other extreme, an overly ample design, might be worse: When the goal is invisibility, a sliver of sock poking out of a loafer is a sad sign of defeat.

But nab the right design and you’ll be left with a summery, decidedly un-sad look indeed—not to mention nicely tanned ankles.

For Lovers of Long Socks…

For those who prefer conspicuous socks, we asked fashion insiders to share their favorite summery styles

Photo: F. Martin Ramin/The Wall Street Journal (Sei Shop)

James Harris, Co-host, Throwing Fits podcast

“I’m a fan of the crew sock height; I like a tonal tie-dye or muted brown.” Try this pair: Socks, $26, SeiShop.net

Steven Taffel, Owner of New York shoe store Leffot

“I like socks with personality—red, orange; hot colors. It’s a way to show individuality.” Try this pair: Socks, $30, Pantherella.com

Ian Bradley, Stylist

“I like a folded-over sock, or a scrunched down knit sock. That looks chic with shorts. Black socks are kind of tricky [but] I like solid colors.” Try this pair: Socks, $5, Uniqlo.com

Madeline Weeks, Costume Designer

“I like an athletic sock with a horizontal stripe. No vertical stripes or patterns.” Try this pair: RoToTo Socks, $25, ToddSnyder.com

SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS

What’s your favorite model of no-show socks? Join the conversation below.

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